When I was young, we had a large maple tree near my house. In the fall, the air would stir, and the leaves would take turns falling, sometimes quickly, sometimes dancing rhythmically in the only flight of their life down to their death. I would look like I was dancing as I twisted and turned and leaped to catch the gyrating leaves. Then I would gather them in a pile and jump into the musty earthy rich smelling fortress of fallen leaves. Raising my own children, I made sure they had the same experience. We made a game of standing under maple trees in the fall as a light wind rustled the golden treasures loose, racing around wildly to catch the falling leaves, then raking them into a pile and jumping into the big soft pillow of leaves. My son Ben trying to catch leaves in the fall of the year 2000. It was a mid-fall day this week, the sun blazing in golden glory, the air warm for November. I peddled my way on Guemes Island along South Shore Road from the Guemes Ferry, riding the two mostly-level miles to the Guemes Mountain Trailhead. I passed scenic shorelines, fancy houses, working farms, red barns, fruit-laden orchards, and quiet woodlands. Guemes Mountain rises quickly on the east side of the island, its shoulders standing above the rest of the mostly flat rural land. At the trailhead, maple leaves hung tenuously in trees all along the road and lower trail. As I admired them, a light zephyr caressed the trees, and a few leaves began to fall. Unable to stop myself, I raced toward them in their flight, trying to catch them in my hands before they hit the ground. It’s not easy! But after a few minutes I caught one, and soon another, and I felt my inner child smiling deeply and glowing warmly. Then I laid them to rest. The Guemes Mountain trail starts out climbing through maples and firs, switchbacking several times to ascend the west slope of the mountain. About half-way up, there is a viewpoint out over the island that shows not only that you have indeed gained quite a bit of elevation; it also shows how the forest changes at this level too. The soil is shallower, rockier, and unable to hold as much water. Maples give way to alder and cherry. Firs look like slender versions of the heavyweights below. The trail continues to climb, then makes one long final straight ascent to the top. Now the forest is almost diminutive, grasses and shrubs dominating with scattered trees as frames for photos. The final stretch is a stroll. There is a loop trail around the peak marked with low cedar railings through the meadows to protect these fragile habitats. You are rewarded with views of Samish Island, Mount Baker and the mainland to the east; Vendovi and Lummi Islands to the north; and Cypress and other San Juans to the west. It’s late afternoon, so I linger to wait for the sunset, which comes early these days. The wait is worth it. The fields, forests and farms of Guemes become shadowed suggestions of island life. The Olympics are silhouetted, the San Juans in misty relief. Baker glows pink. The day has been full; the evening memorable. I head back down the trail in the fading light, back into the deeper woods and then to the maple-shadowed dusky road to ride back to the ferry. This has been a Northwest Sampler of a day: ferry rides, a bike ride along shorelines and local farms, a climb up a forested trail to a mountain peak, discovering views of the San Juans, Olympics, and a nearby volcano, watching a pumpkin-colored sunset and then smelling the fragrant island air as I returned home. It’s an experience worth sharing with friends and family members. Oh, and yes, catching maple leaves. Time to teach my grandchildren this timeless joy as well. jack Directions: Catch the Guemes Island Ferry in Anacortes at 6th Street and I Avenue. If you take your bike, you can ride north on the island up to Edens Road, a mile and a half from the ferry, then turn right and drop down the exhileratingly steep hill to the one lane gravel road at the bottom, then follow the road another half mile or so to the trailhead. Or turn right at the ferry landing and ride two miles along South Shore Road to get to the trailhead. Park your bike at the bike rack, and hike up the one mile trail to the top. On the return trip you can stop at the Guemes Island store near the ferry landing for some take-out treats. Being on the trail after sunset is not recommended.
The public trail on Guemes Mountain is owned by the Skagit Land Trust. They acquired the property in 2017 thanks to the very generous and sizeable donations of many. It is now a treasure that is open to all hikers to enjoy. And don't forget to join Maribeth and me this Saturday, November 7 from 1 to 3 pm at Pacific Rim Institute east of Coupeville for our Book Release Party of the third edition of Hiking Close to Home! Enjoy sips of cider, get your new copy of the book signed, and enjoy a walk around the prairie grounds, all with safe Covid distancing parameters in place.
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Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
April 2024
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