Along the asphalt of the linear Guemes Channel trail, hikers, joggers, strollers and dog walkers tend to be mission oriented, getting down the trail and then back, determined and purposeful. But meandering the other direction through the Ship Harbor Interpretive Pathway gives a different feel, and a different approach, one of discovery, of exploration, of adventure unplanned. First comes a choice: walk the half mile of beach first, or follow the dirt trail winding through the wetland woods. The beach is a half-moon sweep of pure sand, tree-lined and then beach grasses along the edges. The ferries and lines of cars lie in wait far off in the hazy distance. Here it’s just you, the sand, the lapping of water and the backdrop of offshore islands. I tend to start here first, wandering the seashore until my busy thoughts open to overflowing wonderment and joy. The sand is deep, clean, and soft underfoot. The ambience is a balm to the spirit. Ferries loading to the left, Cypress and Guemes lying offshore, Baker in the distance, nothing but gentle waves lapping at my feet, forests and marsh behind and sky above. Time is forever now. Rows of pilings hint at the stories of yesteryear, at the industries that transformed this harbor into serious business. Today only the herons are industrious, feeding in the shallows of low tide for passing forage fish. At the western end of the beach I head back along the boardwalk, but in no hurry. I linger at each turnout along the way, absorbing the sounds of redwings, the flight of swallows, the hesitant dance of rabbits and their young, the sway of alder and cattail. Here a branch of the boardwalk turns into the wetland, winding through like ribbons of discovery. My progress becomes slower and deliberate, senses awakened to all that is alive. New songs flitter from the leaves above. I stop and look and listen. Waxwings hunt for osoberries, Wilson warblers for insects, a song sparrow for an audience for its melody. Finches and flowers, osprey and open water compete for my attention and delight. I linger and loop; I’m lost in the richness of life along this strand of beach. Others wander past me, most at a quiet pace, attuned to the magic of the moments, the power of a wonderland of life of which we are a visitor, a guest, made richer and healthier by the experience. Some are here to pass the time as they wait for a ferry. Some are here to absorb something of the marshes and beaches. Some stroll the beach, some the boardwalk, but all sense the beauty of this natural world, and become more engaged and alive. Much of this area would now look like home to those who still call this harbor their home, the Samish and their Salish cousins. It wasn’t always like this. A hundred years ago the pilings and shoreline hummed and drummed with the sounds of salmon canneries, filling the wetlands and waterways with buildings, warehouses filling the fill, businesses at work. Today only the pilings remain. The shoreline slowly reclaims its health and beauty, the wildlands behind slowly become wildlife habitat once again. In the early morning dawn all is quiet other than a few birds lending their voices to the background. By midday handfuls of solo walkers or couples stroll by, entranced by the easy pathways through complex environments. By afternoon and evening a few families play on the beach, and a few people waiting for a ferry hike past, but mostly it’s those lost in reverie like me, our feet dancing, our spirits flying, our hearts and minds at peace. Wait only for my boot heels to be wanderin'… Out to the windy beach Far from the twisted reach of crazy sorrow Yes, to dance beneath the diamond sky with one hand waving free Silhouetted by the sea Circled by the circus sands… In the jingle jangle morning I’ll come following you. jack Click here to enjoy the scenes and sounds in a three and a half minute long video https://youtu.be/nmCnjGgq67Y Lyrics above and in video from Mr. Tambourine Man, written and performed by Bob Dylan. The other song in the video is the theme song to The Detectorists, music written and performed by Johnny Flynn. Directions: From Anacortes take 12th Street west, which becomes Oakes Avenue. Turn right at the roundabout onto Ship Harbor Street and then left at the T onto Edwards Way. Follow this down to the water's edge. Ship Harbor Interpretive Path is on your left, the Guemes Channel Trail is on your right.
Access: The Skagit Transit 410 bus services the Washington State Ferry Terminal. You can walk from the terminal down a short grassy hillside onto the beach and then you'll see the west end of the Ship Harbor Trail. You may also ride your bike from Anacortes along the same roadway. The shoulder averages about three to four feet in width on both sides. Accessibility: the trail is hardened gravel along the interpretive pathway, with a short hill at the very beginning that will challenge unassisted wheelchairs. Some of the platforms have a step up. The boardwalk is generally accessible to most all people. Much of the beach is soft sand.
0 Comments
Your comment will be posted after it is approved.
Leave a Reply. |
Authors
Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
March 2024
Categories
All
|