It was a rare sighting on Ebey’s Bluff, a small mammal carrying a small mammal with a cinnamon and white striped tail. A ringtail cat perhaps? But no, I was corrected. It was the endangered red panda, native to the Himalayans, brought to these regions by migrating populations of small homo sapiens. The adorable stuffed animal wasn’t quite as cute as the little hiker carrying it in her arms as she bravely led her parents high up along the bluff trail. But then red pandas are known to inhabit steep slopes, so it was only right that it should take the lead. This stunning trail attracts people from near and far. We met old friends from Bellingham and made new friends from the island. Some walked dogs, but most walked with friends, young, old, black, white, brown. They strolled the beach, they climbed the bluff, they sat in the grass to take in the view. They brought cameras, binoculars, and of course, phones. My hiking partner politely asked one group of young ladies to turn off the music blaring from theirs. They kindly obliged. It was a good day for a walk. After a week of rain, the clouds reluctantly parted, giving way to a pleasant afternoon. We drove down scenic Hill Road on our approach with it’s iconic view of the bluff. Seeing all the cars along the beach and the crowded State Park parking lot we drove up and across the prairie to climb the hill on Cemetery Road and parked by the Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve office. From there we walked by stubby fields and the historic Jacob and Sarah Ebey cabin. Following the fence line on the Ridge Trail we arrived at the bluff. The initial 300 foot drop and the expansive view over the water is breathtaking. It brought back so many memories, the times I’d brought my family here when they were visiting from out of state, the group of friends who once walked with me on Christmas Day as the cold wind cut through us like a knife, the farewell party with old hiking partners before I left to hike the Appalachian Trail. This trail was on the cover of Sunset Magazine 20 some years ago listed as one of the Northwest’s “best kept secrets”. It’s no secret anymore. It may be the most popular trail on the Island and well known throughout the region. When people ask me, “What’s your favorite trail?” this one comes quickly to mind. Though I try to steer people to lesser-known trails to spare this one from overuse, Ebey’s Bluff is special. It’s got enough of a climb to get my heart pumping and the views are spectacular all along the 5.6 mile loop. It faces south so even in winter, if there’s any sun at all, you’re in it. (Of course, you also experience the full force of foul weather on wet and windy days.) You can see Mount Baker across the prairie to the northeast, Mount Rainier over Puget Sound to the southeast, and the entire Olympic Range to the southwest, over the wide expanse of Admiralty Inlet. Crossing ferries add their charm. I’ve seen whales from here, windsurfers, eagles, and hawks at eye level. A few years back I watched the start of the powerless Race to Alaska with every kind of sailboat starting out from Port Townsend (https://r2ak.com/). On this day, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll along the top of the bluff but decided not to go down to the beach to make it a loop hike. Instead, we stayed high above Perego’s Lagoon at the edge of the wind whipped trees and retraced our steps. As we began our descent back to the fence line and the Ridge Trail, we paused to take in a glorious sunset. What a perfect walk. We felt fully blessed to live in such a paradise as this. Maribeth Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve is managed by an interagency board and includes over 17,500 acres on central Whidbey Island, on public and private property. Get details and see a MAP (Scroll down for the Bluff Trail): Directions: There are 2 ways to reach the Ebey’s Bluff Trail.
From Highway 20 at the stop light in Coupeville, go about 100 yards north to S. Ebey Road and turn left (south). Drive about a mile and a half to the beach. You’ll need a Discover Pass to park in the parking lot. Or you may find a spot on the side of the road outside the gate. OR go north from the Coupeville stop light about 200 yards to Sherman Road, turn left, then veer right onto Cemetery Road. Follow the road to the top of the hill to park by the Prairie Overlook. Or continue, slowly and carefully, to the parking area by the Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve office. Walk south toward the Jacob & Sarah Ebey cabin and blockhouse which may be open in the summer with interpretive displays and docents. From there, follow the fence line toward the water on the Ridge Trail, to the Bluff Trail. (You may also visit Ebey family graves in the Cemetery within the white picket fence.) There are restrooms at both trailheads. Bus and Bike: Fare Free Island Transit Route 1 bus can stop at Sherman Road where you can walk the bike path north to the Spur Trail that leads to the Pratt Loop that leads to the Ridge Trail and the Bluff Trail. Just keep walking south. This will add another mile and a half (round trip) to your 5.6 mile Bluff Trail loop. Mobility: Most of this hike is narrow and on a steep slope, with a steep climb to the top of the bluff. However, one could enjoy time at the beach near the beach parking lot, where there are picnic tables and restrooms, or starting at the Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve offices, go south as far as the Jacob & Sarah Ebey cabin on a rough but flat, farm road.
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Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
March 2024
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