When people ask me “What’s your favorite trail?” I used to think of the Ebey’s Bluff Trail. It is stunningly beautiful with expansive views of the water and mountains, a beach walk and ridge hike in one. But over the years I find myself gravitating to the lesser-known Pratt Loop Trail that stands meekly in its shadow. My sister, Sue, was one of the most popular girls in school. She always dressed well and wore her hair and make-up tastefully. She hung out with the cheerleaders and football stars. I came along a few years later, a little sloppy and shy. I was known as Sue’s little sister. Early last Saturday morning, I drove past the Sunnyside Cemetery and parked behind the Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve office. I turned away from the Bluff Trail toward the Pratt Loop Trail, and began to think about it metaphorically. The Ebey’s Bluff Trail is probably the most popular trail on the Island. The Pratt Loop is not so showy and often overlooked. You have to get to know it before you really appreciate it. I love to walk there on spring mornings with my ears and eyes open, looking for birds. Heading north from the parking lot, I could peer over the shrubs at the blockhouse in the cemetery next door. Indian plum and Oregon grape bloomed adding color to the thicket of wild rose in the hedgerow. The sun shone brightly. Birds were singing. Cows were lulling around on the pasture next door. I carried binoculars around my neck and a camera in my pocket. Hummingbirds posed briefly at the tippy top of an elderberry. A savannah sparrow perched on a slender, yellow flower. The old snag that used to stand in the middle of the field has finally fallen. It lays on its side still serving as a centerpiece. At the historic barn, I stopped at the map to see the connections with the Kettle Spur Trail and traced my route around to the loop to the Ridge Trail that would take me by the Sarah and Jacob Ebey cabin and back to the trailhead. Standing at the edge of the forest, I could hear woodland birds calling, a nuthatch, woodpeckers, and chickadees. Flickers drummed on the tallest snag waking up the neighborhood just like they do on streetlights and chimneys. Golden crowned kinglets dove into the ocean spray that form a canopy along the trail. Hummingbirds were humming, warblers were warbling, and woodpeckers were pecking. I walked ahead and then came back, following their calls, trying to get a look at some of these songsters. A jogger passed by. A few minutes later, he returned. I grinned as both of us were going around in circles. The trail weaves into the woods, then out to the field, then back into the woods, deep shade, bright sun, deep shade, like a swimmer rising to the surface, taking a breath, and submerging again. Field, forest, field, forest until one reaches the far side of the pool and climbs out. The warm sun shines and distant mountains come into view. I followed the trail across the fields as views of Puget Sound and Ebey’s Prairie unfurled before me. Turning toward the Sarah and Jacob Ebey cabin, hordes of people appeared headed toward the Bluff Trail. First a group of twenty chattering away, then a group of ten, and right after them, a group of seven. But who’s counting? I’m happy to have a quiet walk on the Pratt Loop seeing only a few other people in the hour I spent there, but many more birds. After they’d passed the cabin and the quiet returned, I got pictures of a chipping sparrow and red winged blackbirds. I was happy with my walk and all the birds I'd seen and photographed. Rounding the bend toward the parking lot, I heard quail and saw them scurry beneath the hedge. They’re a little shy. I can relate. Maribeth Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve is cooperatively managed by the National Parks, State Parks, Island County and the Town of Coupeville. The Pratt Loop is just a small part of the 17,000 acre reserve. Learn more here. Directions: From the stoplight on Highway 20 in Coupeville go northwest 1 mile and turn south on Sherman Road. In half a mile turn right on Cemetery Road. The parking area is at the very end. Go slowly on this single lane blind curve. Restrooms are at the trailhead. Dogs must be on a leash and bring a bag for pet waste.
Bus and Bike: The nearest bus stop is at Sherman Road less than a mile away. Take Island Transit Route 1 Monday-Saturday. There is a paved bike path that parallels the highway for 4 miles from Rhododendron Park to the Kettles Trails near Fort Ebey State Park. The Kettles Spur trail connects this paved bike path with the Pratt Loop Trail. Bikes are not allowed on the trail but a bike rack is provided by the bike path. 2-3 bikes fit on an Island Transit bus. Mobility: The Pratt Loop is flat and most of it is on farm roads that are easy to walk or ride with a mobility device. As the trail enters the woods there are more roots and the trail narrows but is not rough. The loop 1.3 miles long.
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Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
April 2024
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