Fun! That’s what our hike was, pure fun! The wind blew strong out of the west, not its usual direction. The sun shone brightly, sparkling in the wind-scrubbed sky. The air was warm…ish. “Where should we hike?” I asked Kath. “Somewhere fun,” she replied, and we both said “Bowman Bay and Rosario!” Emerson the elephant seal was still lounging around the parking lot at Bowman Bay. Park staff had tried to open the parking lot for visitors, but Emerson delighted in waddling over to cars, oblivious to the law that we all have to stay a hundred yards away from him. And then he just plopped himself down in the middle of the lot and took a nap, so the lower parking area was closed once again. The beaches are now open, but who knows where he will wander, so be flexible if you go there in the next couple of weeks. A big thank you to all the volunteers who help teach us about Emerson’s habits and capture the stories and photos of his childhood antics. When we arrived, Elizabeth Drozda and Jann Ledbetter were on hand near the boat launch, telling stories about him, sharing photos, and reminding visitors of the need to give him space. I took my photo of him with a telephoto lens from a proper distance. But the sun and wind continued to beckon. Kath and I wandered down to the beach. Waves rolled in from the Strait, sparkling in their blue and white. The gravel glistened, seagulls turned on the wind, children and dogs and an adult or two cavorted and ran and played, feeling like spring is back if just for a day. We climbed the bank to the Bowman - Rosario trail and looked back over the expanse of Bowman Bay, spread out like a welcome mat before us, waves rolling in. We’ll be back soon, we said, not realizing how many more pleasures awaited ahead. We hiked up the short but steep trail, seeing ferns dancing in the wind, trees waving their arms, silhouetted by the shimmering waters of the bay. People passed in clumps of two or three, smiles on their faces. We came to the tree that needs a name, alone on a promontory near Rosario, and we lay in the small bowl at the point, perfectly sized for two people and a dog to lie down and soak up the sun out of the wind. Waves crashed all around us. Bees busied themselves on newly-emerged flowers. The sun beamed down. After a joyful rest, we finished the hike to Rosario, the green grass inviting picnics and playfulness. The isthmus to Rosario hummed with people. We walked onto the dock and rode the floats like a rollercoaster, the waves rising and falling beneath us, keeping us dancing. KoKwalAlWoot watched stoically, a look of wisdom on her face, and maybe a twinkle in her eye. We followed the gentle south trail to the top of Rosario, as a glaucous-winged gull flew along nearby, loving the eddy of a breeze. At the top I unzipped my coat and raised it over my head like a sail, letting the winds pick me up off my feet a little. (Obviously, do not do this near the edge.) Waves pounded the base of Rosario; oystercatchers squawked and laughed on the rocks offshore. The blues and whites of the sea were achingly beautiful. Time lost all meaning as we hung out, but it was a tad cold up there, so we headed back down, watching Harlequin ducks playing in the surfline. We retraced our steps back toward Rosario, playing leapfrog with other hikers who, like us, would walk a ways, then stop to enjoy the amazing day. Eventually we dropped back down to Bowman, the sun still a welcome friend, the wind a playful partner, the sparkle of the day unforgettable. jack https://youtu.be/QCTEPhJa5VQ A one-minute video of some of that sparkle. Directions: From the Deception Pass Bridge, drive north a half mile, turn left at Rosario Road, and immediately turn left again into Bowman Bay.
By Bus: There is no direct bus service; Island Transit does stop near Cornet Bay Road a mile and a half south of Bowman Bay. By bike: Highway 20 has narrow shoulders in this area, and mostly high speed limits. Rosario Road has lower speed limits, but also has narrow shoulders. Mobility: Bowman Bay has a flat graveled trail along the waterfront, as does Rosario. The trail between the two is somewhat steep and filled with rocks and roots.
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Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
April 2024
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