 While hiking on Kiket Island a couple of years ago I had the good fortune to run into Tracy Powell, the carver of Kokwalalwoot, the story pole residing at Rosario Beach. As we are both getting into our elderly years, we chatted about legacy and end of life thoughts. I mentioned that I wouldn’t mind having my ashes spread on Mt. Erie when my time comes. He looked up at Erie and said I had chosen well, that it is still a sacred place for the Samish, full of spiritual power and life. The Samish lived primarily on the beaches of Fidalgo and the San Juans, going into the hills for special resources, and climbing places like Mt. Erie for personal vision quests. I remembered back to my studies and involvement with tribal life as a teenager, and the importance of the vision quest for individuals to gain spiritual direction, power, and knowledge. Their training began in early childhood, so that as they came of age, they would seek visions. The child was instructed to get rid of human pollution by fasting, bathing, and purging. Sent out during the stormiest weather in winter in which the spirits were believed to run about, a child remained for many days. The vision experience was described as an encounter with an animal, tree, or natural feature such as the sun. The spirit transported the seeker to its house, where it instructed the person as to what occupation to follow and what paraphernalia to use or wear, and gave the seeker power and a song. Upon returning from the quest, the child did not speak of the experience immediately for fear of losing its power. I was reminded of this as Kath, Murphy and I were hiking up Mt. Erie. Like the tribal peoples, our modern town of Anacortes hugs the flats of Fidalgo near the water. And we wander into the ACFL and up to Mt. Erie, searching for something, the spirit of nature maybe, in the trees, the wildlife, or a sunrise or sunset. We started hiking halfway up, as the winter daylight was waning, the air cold, the skies clear. We took trail 26, then began scrambling up trail 216, our hearts pumping as we gained elevation quickly. We passed only one other couple on these trails. Slick rocks and roots kept us focused on each step. Water bottles came out once or twice, and as our heart rates rose, our coats came off. Nearing the top, we were encouraged by the sign pointing the way to the summit. And then, there at our feet, the ground dropped away into silence. Golden rays slanted through the hills. Lake Campbell and Fidalgo Island led to Whidbey, the Skagit Flats, Mt. Rainier and the Cascades, the Salish Sea and the Olympics, and the sun finishing its course for the day. The mountaintop viewpoints were now filling with dozens of people having driven to the summit for a quick fix of the view. Regardless of how we arrived there, we all treasured a small share of the spirit of the place. As the sun touched the peaks, conversations faded. We sat or stood in reverie on the edge of the mountain at the closing of the day. Without the sun the temperature dropped to the thirties. Coats came back on. The evening wrapped itself around us along with the spirit of this time and place. The moon rose and darkness fell; we eventually turned and headed back down, our shared experience resonating within. jack Directions: From Anacortes take H Avenue to Heart Lake Road. From Whidbey follow Highway 20 north of the Deception Pass Bridge, drive about four miles and turn left on Campbell Lake Road, then right onto Heart Lake Road. Look for the parking area just south of Heart Lake.
By bike: Heart Lake Road is windy, hilly, and has narrow shoulders. Mobility: The trail is steep, rocky, narrow, and uneven. The paved road is steep in places and has no shoulder, but traffic is light.
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 This week, approaching the Solstice, I was thinking about a poem by Wendell Berry, To Know the Dark To go in the dark with a light is to know the light. To know the dark, go dark. Go without sight, And find that the dark, too, blooms and sings, And is traveled by dark feet and dark wings. I’ve been looking out my window after dark to admire the holiday lights on homes across the valley, a cheery sight. I’ve strung lights across my window for my neighbors and I to enjoy. On these long nights I read stories, play music, enjoy festive gatherings, choirs, concerts and delicious treats. And during these short days I walk, on the beach if tides allow, or on trails that are not too wet. This morning I woke with a Pete Seeger song in my head, Quite Early Morning, and thinking it is the early morning of the year, just as our earth’s northern hemisphere begins to tilt back toward the sun. The longest nights are behind us now and we are leaning toward the light. So I decided to go for a predawn walk, an hour before sunrise, so I might experience and celebrate the shift. The trails at South Whidbey Community Park are so well-built and maintained that I knew I could walk safely in the dark. The flashlight in my pocket stayed there. I began at 7:00 where lights from the high school shone through the trees, then turning a corner, the faint starlight and dim glow of the sky lit my way. The sound of traffic a mile away whispered through the woods. I walked up a hill and easily followed the grey gravel trail. A powdery blue light sifted through the trees like confectionary sugar on a molasses cookie. My footsteps drummed softly, rhythmically through the dark forest. The trail led to the open field and playground near Langley Road where the eastern horizon began to glow. I heard the first birds call. Pacific wren kept the beat. Golden crowned kinglet sang soprano, song sparrow filled in the alto and towhee took tenor. I’d hoped to hear a barred owl sounding bass but, though I’d seen one here before, it was silent at this hour when all others began to sing. A friendly pond had formed where there hadn’t been one last summer. Ravens flew over the field calling with their loud get-up-you-lazy-bones tone. I re-entered the woods and found them less dark. It was almost 8:00 now and in a little while I heard voices. Two women walking their dogs in animated conversation. I thought they must use this trail daily, year round. As I neared the park road, I checked my watch. It was a little after sunrise. The sky was light. The tops of the tallest trees glowed in the sun's golden rays. But I walked 100 feet below, still in cool shadow and mist. It had grown light enough to read the titles in the little free library. More people entered the park. Birds gathered in the treetops like Christmas ornaments, singing their sunrise songs. I was glad to start early on this shortest day of the year, to soak up every available moment of light. Let it shine, whether it be a candle in your window, or the golden orb rising over the treetops, on these dark days, let us lean toward the light. Happy Solstice! Maribeth So though it's darkest before the dawn These thoughts keep us moving on Through all this world of joy and sorrow We still can have singing tomorrows Through all this world of joy and sorrow We still can have singing tomorrows Listen to Pete sing it with Arlo Guthrie here. Directions: From the Clinton Ferry take Highway 525 3.3 miles to Maxwelton Road and turn right, toward Langley. In a half mile you'll pass the South Whidbey High School. Turn at the park sign on the right. Or from the north, come south on Highway 525. Five minutes after passing the light at Bayview turn left at the light on Maxwelton Road, just past the High School turn right.
Bus and Bike: Island Transit's free Route 60 bus, which stops in Clinton, Langley and Freeland, comes by both sides of this park on Maxwelton Road and Langley Road. See the schedule here for weekdays and here for weekends. Or call 360-678-7771. For biking, Maxwelton and Langley Roads both have a wide shoulder and are almost level. Please wear something bright and use your lights while riding with traffic or waiting for the bus. Mobility: These trails are wide and smooth with a packed gravel surface okay for wheels or walkers. There's a steep hill behind the high school but the rest of the trails have a gentle grade. The bus can carry wheelchairs to the park.  40°, damp and wet. Few of us wanted to be out in the chill. The birds and other small creatures find a way to survive and bring cheer. Kinglets and nuthatches were caroling above us, just out of sight. A frog’s gravelly chanting echoed through the ancient cathedral of trees. We were on Broom-Tomb Loop Trail. Great name, eh? Rocks shimmering with emerald green mosses lined our way. Broom-Tomb is a loop trail beyond the Sares Head route, an additional mile of meadow and woodland, of intimate glades and grand views. It’s a winding path with many ups and downs, a skinny route that leads the eyes to so much beauty both far and near. It’s also a cornucopia of mushrooms. Elvish caps rose up, all velvety soft, brown and white and tan and orange, a fairy roof for their tendrils bringing nourishing lines of life to all around them. Tiny squiggles of insects and spiders meandered through the miniature forests of moss and lichen. Such is the beauty we cannot see, beside our every step. At the peak of the route, we could see Rosario Head and Lighthouse Point, and beyond the long winding ribbon of Whidbey Island, its gray-green woodlands and headlands disappearing into the wispy shrouds of clouds. Atop this overlook, seagulls chanted the rhythm of the sea. Oyster-catchers chided each other on the clumpy rocks below. Clouds hung like upside down jellies bouncing below the great blue. For one minute the sunlight dared to poke through to turn the trees and trail, the rocks and mosses into glittering gold. Then all grew gray again, the forests muted, the meadows mellow, cool and silent. All was quiet, other than our labored breathing climbing back up to the end of the loop, to the overlook facing west, beyond Fidalgo, over Rosario Strait, over the misty San Juans and Vancouver Island, across the broad expanse of Juan de Fuca into the ether of a world without end. This is our place to listen, to watch and immerse ourselves in quiet, in the hidden life that we pass by so quickly, the endless gifts of the outside world. And we give thanks for being able to plant our feet here on our wondrous earth. jack and Kath Directions: Get outside. From Whidbey go north on the Deception Pass Bridge, turn left on Rosario Road and follow it to Sharpe Park on the left in about a mile and half. From Anacortes take 12th Street to D Avenue, go south 5.5 miles to the park on your right.
By bike: Rosario Road is windy, hilly, and narrow-shouldered, but with light traffic. Mobility: the trail is very narrow in places, steep in places, rocky, slippery, mostly dry in winter. Wayfinding: This trail starts near where the Sares Head trail ends at the western top of Sares Head. If you take Broom-Tomb Loop clockwise, you climb to the very top, then descend quite low, then climb back up to the west-facing Sares Head area. Be sure to turn right at the one T-intersection you will find at the low point of the trail. If you go counterclockwise, it's the opposite of everything I just said. Special Opportunity -- Library talks this Friday and Sunday! Winter Walks Close to Home Library talks by Maribeth Crandell When you can't get up into the high country, and you want to burn some of those holiday cookie calories, stay close to home. Meet Maribeth Crandell, author of Hiking Close to Home on Whidbey, Fidalgo and Guemes Islands. With over 70 trails to chose from, she'll suggest the best winter hikes including those that are
Oak Harbor Library Friday, Dec. 15, 1-2pm Or at the Freeland Library Sunday, Dec. 17, 2-3pm  It’s been wet and windy all week. I sit by my fireplace and listen to the rain pounding the roof as tall trees dance outside. Another friend has gifted me with cookies, which I can’t resist, so I really need to go out for a walk. But where? When? They say there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad rain gear. Well I’ve been out in bad rain gear often enough that I’ve also learned to check the forecast before I go. It gives me an idea of when the rain will slack off or the wind will pick up. Then I plan my outing. I usually go out wearing long johns under my pants, a warm fleece under my raincoat, gloves, hat and, if there’s no wind, an umbrella. (I like walking with an umbrella. It reminds me of Christopher Robin.) My walks start with me zipped up to my chin, but after a while I usually shed a layer. I’ve noticed storms tend to look worse from inside the house. Once I’m outside and moving, it’s generally not so bad. Checking the forecast and dressing appropriately are good strategies for an enjoyable winter walk. The next thing to consider is where to go. Our rain and wind storms usually come from the southwest. So this week I went for a walk at Fort Casey State Park. Rain was in the forecast but not until evening. Though gale force winds were predicted, the afternoon was surprisingly mild. There were many others outside, taking advantage of the calm between storms. The big guns were busy with people peering down the barrel or climbing up and down ladders. Kids and grown-ups love to explore the fort. Other folks were walking along the bluff or running across the parade grounds. The fort blocks the wind coming off the water and offers shelter from rain in the underground rooms, but all that grey concrete on another grey day, had me seeking a more cheery atmosphere, so I headed for the lighthouse. It’s a house, after all, and it’s all decked out for the holidays. The front porch has a huge wreath with a big red bow and just inside is a festive Christmas tree. This time of year, park visitation is low so the lighthouse, which serves as a visitor’s center, is closed, except on Saturday and Sunday from noon to 4pm. And, this Saturday, Dec. 9th, they’ll be staying open after dark! Canceled...The Light Up the Lighthouse party will be this Saturday from 4-7pm. Visitors will park in the picnic area just inside the park entrance. There’s plenty of parking there and it’s just a short walk through the woods to the lighthouse. “Did you say through the woods? After dark?” Yes! They’ll have strings of lights to guide you through the forest. It’s enchanting! You can also bring a flashlight of course. The Lighthouse will be dazzling with holiday lights streaming from the tower. Roast marshmallows outside or come inside to meet Santa. There will be children’s games and the gift shop will be open to purchase uniquely local presents. I’ll be there playing holiday songs with friends. Come and sing along with us! Bring your State Park Discovery Pass for parking, and your umbrella, because... they're predicting rain. Canceled If you’re looking for more wonderful Winter Walks, join me next week. I’ll be speaking at the Oak Harbor Library on Friday, Dec. 15th at 1pm, and at the Freeland Library Sunday, Dec. 17th at 2pm. I’ll have suggestions for the best winter walks with protection from prevailing winds, trails that aren’t too wet after heavy rains, and those that are close to shelters and hot drinks to warm up on a cold day. Ho, Ho, Ho! Maribeth Directions: Take Hwy 20 to Coupeville and follow the signs toward the ferry. Fort Casey State Park is just west of the ferry terminal. If you start in Coupeville, just take Main Street south which turns into Engle Road. Look for the sign for Fort Casey State Park, right next to the Camp Casey buildings.
By Bus and Bike: Island Transit recently changed Route 6 to On-Demand service. To get bus service, just call 360-678-7771 to make arrangements at least 2 hours in advance. By bike, take Main Street south of Coupeville for 3.5 miles on mostly level roads. Please wear bright clothes and use lights when riding on the road. Traffic comes in waves as the ferry comes in. Mobility: There is wheelchair access to the lower level of the fort via a sidewalk on the north end of the parking lot. There's a gravel road that leads to the lighthouse but steep steps to get inside. |
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