 The sun came out and clouds parted for this walk through the Earth Sanctuary. Baby ducks, baby rabbits, new spring shoots everywhere sang out, “It’s spring! It’s spring!” I turned toward the dolman, my favorite of the standing stones, and found iris blooming nearby. I spun the prayer wheel in a sun wise direction and made a plea for peace, for sanity, in our country and in distant lands. Prayer flags fluttered with bright colors against a canopy of green leaves and blue sky. One set of homemade prayer flags in blues and yellows, included a small Ukrainian flag. Others sported red, white and blue stars and stripes. Walking the trail I was surrounded by lush green growth, spring beauty, foam flower and a carpet of lily of the valley bloomed along the trail. Birds sang above me and one persistent robin called again and again in alarm. I stopped and looked, took a few steps forward, took a few steps back. I kept looking but the leafy alders and maples were hiding the sleepy predator. Finally, I stepped off the trail to study the branches of a tall fir tree and there it was, a barred owl just trying to get some shut eye. The robin finally left it alone and it went back to sleep. I’ve been here many times but usually my attention is directed toward the water and a good view of ducks, geese or even a swan once. This time I decided to take the Celestial Trail that climbs high away from the ponds. It was a good leg stretcher and lung expander, out of the alder marsh into a forest of fir and hemlock. Up, up and around and finally I came out in a place I’d never been. There was a map that showed me I was near the Emil Road entrance. Around a corner there was a line of prayer wheels and an impressive Buddhist stupa. Swallows played around a colorful set of prayer flags. Nearby, redwoods had been planted as a memorial for certain people with plaques that bore their names. A red sculpture, a stone owl, and I was back on a trail in the woods. Emerging from the trees I came upon a circle of standing stones. My ancestors from the British Isles would probably approve. I walked around them clockwise uttering another prayer of thanks for this amazing place. Leaving, I spun a nearby prayer wheel and continued on the trail. A bench in the sun invited me to sit down by the water and listen for birds. It was quiet. A cyclist went by on the road with a whirrrr. Ducks paddled placidly among water lilies. Song sparrows sang. Towhees called. A small yellow bird with a jaunty black beret, a Wilson’s Warbler, made a fleeting appearance. I heard black headed grosbeak, chickadees, and juncos. Starting back alongside the pond I noticed a turtle on a stump out in the middle soaking up the sun. This forested wetland, fen, bog, marsh, provides food and shelter, peace and prayer for the whole community, all my relations, those with feet, fur, feathers, flippers and foliage. The trail led me by peace posts with prayers in different languages, seats where one could watch the water, wood duck boxes, and metal osprey on tall spires with the word “Quiet” underneath. Looking up I saw an osprey nest at the top of a tree. All the parts of the puzzle have been preserved here. Thanks to Chuck Pettis and his friends and family who keep it open and maintain the trails. This trail is unlike any other on Whidbey Island. Come quietly and enjoy the peace of spring at the Earth Sanctuary. Maribeth The Earth Sanctuary is open every day during daylight hours. There is a $7 per person entry fee. Payment can be made with cash, check, PayPal, or Venmo ([email protected]). No dogs, please. For more about the Earth Sanctuary click here. Directions: Take Highway 525 to Freeland. Coming from the south, you may turn right on Newman Road and drive about a mile to the Earth Sanctuary sign. Coming from north of Freeland, turn left at the light at Fish Road and follow Main Street to Newman Road. Turn left and drive about 1 mile to the Earth Sanctuary sign on the left.
By Bus or Bike: Take the fare free Island Transit Route 1 bus to Maple Ridge in Freeland and walk one mile east on Newman Road to the Earth Sanctuary. Two bikes fit on a bus bike rack. Newman Road is a quiet, level road with little traffic. Please wear bright clothes when walking or biking by the road. For a bus schedule click here. Mobility: The trails are narrow and slightly hilly. Some short sections close to the parking area are more gentle with benches.
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 As we returned to the car, I asked Lee for three words to describe our hike. She was thoughtful for a minute. “Melodic, verdant and a workout!” I would say, “Up, Up and Up!” Piper took the lead and tugged at the tough spots. We huffed and puffed as we climbed to new heights. The trail turned this way and that under towering maples, alders, cedars and fir. Steep slopes covered in sword ferns waved as we passed. We climbed stairs, crossed bridges, strode past fallen logs and standing snags. Climbing steadily, we eventually reached the top gasping for air and needing water. Fortunately, there’s a water fountain and a doggie dish beside it. It seemed odd, up here in the middle of the woods, but welcome all the same. We drank our fill. Wandering around on the top of the ridge, we found a bench, just out of sight of some nearby houses. There were natural ornaments hanging from trees, chunks of driftwood threaded by a rope, and one piece of foam, a reminder that our beaches are not as pristine as we’d like. We sat to catch our breath and listened to bird songs. Was that a Swainson’s thrush? We got help from Merlin, the phone app that can tell by the sound. We heard golden crowed kinglets, a song sparrow, American robins, a song sparrow, a Pacific slope flycatcher, a song sparrow, black headed grosbeak, a song sparrow, a house finch, American crow, and... a song sparrow. The cool marine fog had burned off (as we’d burned off our calories from lunch) so on our way down, we began to catch glimpses of Possession Sound through the trees. This trail in winter, offers better views, before the deciduous trees leaf out. But the trail is muddier, too. It’s good to return to see how the trail changes in different seasons. Going in the opposite direction also offers different views. We found a little bird house tucked in under the salmonberry bushes like a little fairy house. We came upon a tree with scratch marks over five feet high. That wasn’t done by a house cat. There must be a bear on the island, again. Maybe more than one. A bear was seen at Strawberry Point recently, east of Oak Harbor, and that’s fifty miles away. (I wonder if that bear and our only elk, Bruiser, are acquainted.) We were almost to the bottom when Lee got stung by a nettle. I found some burdock and offered it to rub on the sting. There was some discussion about plant identification, but I’ve always used that plant, whatever you want to call it, to relieve nettle stings. Even on the other side of the world in Bhutan, I’d found both nettles and burdock growing close together. It works well there, too. Piper had done her duty as guide dog and personal trainer, so she got to go for a swim at the beach. Nearby a couple launched a kayak and paddled off. People packed up their picnics. A man pulled his fishing boat up at the boat ramp. No, he hadn’t caught anything but was still happy to go out. Wild roses bloomed. Bees buzzed. We heard red winged blackbirds calling from the cattails. And ... a song sparrow. We drove a few miles and then stopped at Bailey’s Corner Store for a cold drink and a bag of chips. Bailey’s Corner is a community gathering place with food, outdoor trivia on Thursday nights and live music. What a treat after a good hike. Maribeth For Bailey’s Corner Store events, click here. The Dorothy Cleveland Trail, at Possession Beach Waterfront Park, is owned by the Port of South Whidbey. For more information, click here. For a map & more photos click here. National Trails Day is Sat. June 3. Take the pledge to leave the trail better than you found it. Share your trail experience and enter to win valuable outdoor gear here. Directions: From Highway 525 at Ken's Korner shopping center near Clinton, take Cultus Bay Road almost 5 miles south. Cultus Bay Road turns right, but keep going straight on Possession Road for another 1.5 miles. Turn right at Possession Beach Waterfront Park. The trail is just south of the caretaker's house. It will cross Franklin Road (which leads to Possession Point State Park.)
By Bus or Bike: There is no bus service in this area. The road is winding and hilly. Cultus Bay Road has moderate traffic. Please wear something bright if you choose to ride a bike along the road. Mobility: This trail is 1.5 miles round trip. It's steep and winding, but the beach and picnic tables at the park are very accessible from the boat launch.  "academe- among the groves. 1 a place of instruction : school. b academic life or community, or world of academia." Merriam Webster Among the groves near the ancient city of Athens the philosopher, Plato, met with other scholars for instruction and discussion. Plato called the grove the academe which is where we get the word academy. Here in this grove, alongside this creek, scores of small scholars gather for instruction and discussion. Classes are held in the spring and fall led by savvy volunteer educators. They meet at the classroom with its large covered shelter. Some accompany their leader out along the trails. Others gather at the deck overlooking Maxwelton Creek. Each site has a learning station that engages the students in scientific study. They may measure the velocity of the water, observe birds along the trail, or study the life cycle of salmon at the classroom. They might collect microinvertabrates and study them under a microscope. Or make spore prints with mushrooms. Different age appropriate lessons are used according to the season. This academy can be a busy place this time of year. I came late in the day after mowing grass and weeding raspberries in the hot sun. The excited voices of teachers and students had withdrawn by then. I parked next to a huge skillfully crafted salmon at the entrance that sprang from the shrubbery. The trail led me to the classroom where I peered inside to see a large mural, bookshelves, tables and chairs like any classroom. Then around the picnic shelter I found posters of native plants, a worm bin, and a sign on trail etiquette. Around back a large maple’s wide spread branches stood like a nurturing mother with a circle of benches below. Sunlight set the canopy dazzling in brilliance. A tour of the trail showed how it had changed over time. This was not just a loop trail, these are the halls of academia. A set of benches at a turn in the trail was set up for a small group to gather and study just above the creek. Another set of benches offered yet another opportunity to sit and observe. There were tags on native plants along the way. My favorite, wild lily of the valley, disappears completely in the winter, but like magic, emerges and carpets both sides of the trail in the spring. It was in full flower as I made my way toward the boardwalk. Elevated above the wetland, I was surrounded by salmonberry bushes and skunk cabbage. Alders leaned in overhead sheltering songbirds. My footsteps sounded softly on the surface. Turning the corner, the boardwalk led to a covered deck with benches and a railing that overlooks the creek. The refreshing sound of gurgling water was inviting. I rolled up my pant legs, took off my shoes and stepped in. They used to call this Pepsi Cola creek because its dark brown from the peat tannins up the valley and it’s foamy. The foam collects in the corners and reminds me of a root beer float. Some may think it’s pollution but the color and the foam is completely natural, as any 5th grader who has been coming to the Outdoor Classroom for years, could attest. Standing in the creek completely revived me. The lush green vegetation soothed my soul. And the songs of wren and warbler made me grateful for the many small and wondrous things around me. I sat by the water awhile and took it all in. This is a precious place of natural peace and quiet, at least after school is out. Maribeth The Outdoor Classroom is busy with classes in spring except on Wednesdays and on weekends. It’s owned by the South Whidbey School District and the educational programs are run by the Whidbey Watershed Stewards, a private non-profit. Volunteer teachers and assistants are welcome. For details click here. Directions: From Highway 525 3.3 miles north of Clinton, or 6 miles south of Freeland, turn south at the light onto Maxwelton Road and go 3.5 miles. Just before French Road you’ll see the sign for the Outdoor Classroom on the left.
Bus and Bike: Island Transit’s Route 1 bus runs along Highway 525 and stops at Maxwelton Road. It’s an easy 3 mile bike ride to the Outdoor Classroom with wide shoulders and is almost level most of the way. Please wear something bright while riding a bike along the road. Mobility: This loop trail is short and an easy stroll with several places to sit along the way. Trails are a bit narrow for a wheelchair or mobility device.  On the first Earth Day I walked to school with a friend picking up trash alongside the road. Our bags grew heavy. The hour grew late. We called mom for a ride. The school secretary didn’t believe our excuse. She looked at us sternly and sent us to class. Since then I’ve helped orchestrate many Earth Day events. Once I arranged to have a couple of wolves brought in to meet a crowd at a park in Bellevue. At Lake Crescent children crawled through a giant salmon sculpture to see the watershed mural inside. April is Whidbey Earth and Ocean Month with dozens of organizations offering guided walks, talks and restoration projects. On April 29th in Freeland, we’ll have Whidbey 101 with everything you need to know about living on the island. I’ll be there with info on how to reduce your carbon footprint by taking the bus. You can learn how to grow organic veggies, manage a pasture, or how to treat your septic system. You could volunteer to build trails, survey shorelines, or help provide programs for kids. Learn how to prepare for the next wind storm or king tide. This year? Honestly, I wasn’t even thinking about Earth Day. They say Earth Day is every day and that’s what it has become for many of us. On any given day I might be hiking, picking up litter, or teaching people how to use the bus. I think Edward Abbey said something like when we’re all out there working to save the environment, don’t forget to spend time enjoying it, too. So last Saturday I went for a hike at South Whidbey State Park, and afterwards, joined a group to eradicate aliens. I went early and walked down the hill through the old campground where paved roads provide wheelchair access to the magnificent forest. Turning down a side trail, I was struck by the mighty maples and their gnarly trunks. Bees were buzzing between salmonberry blossoms. Kinglets flitted about in the canopy. Douglas squirrels scolded and scampered across the trail. Towhee peered through the shrubs. I heard a woodpecker high up in a snag and a nuthatch tooting in the distance. A Pacific wren sang with delight. A Swainson’s thrush called its spiraling song. As the trail twisted and turned down toward the water I heard the most mystical call of all, a loon. At the end of the trail, the bluff has worn away and the stairs tilt sideways. A rope offered assistance in climbing the last 20 feet to the beach. Nearby a flock of mergansers dipped and disappeared, only to reappear a moment later. Two gulls stood on a driftwood branch just above the water like lifeguards at the pool. I walked the beach and took it all in, the grey morning, the steady breeze, the distant mountains. Then climbing back up the bank, I thanked whoever had secured the rope, and moved briskly up the trail to join the work party by the ranger’s house. Margie Parker had circled her group by then. Friends of Whidbey State Parks were there to help remove non-native plants, or aliens. We introduced ourselves, got tools and directions, then set to work. Lach took the holly and spurge laurel (a rhododendron look-alike) while the other 6 of us began digging up a carpet of Archangel, an invasive ground cover that chokes out the native vegetation. Some of us had worked together before, installing stairs or cleaning campgrounds. After a while Margie called for a cookie break. She conferred with the Ranger about the projects that need work in the state parks between Joseph Whidbey and Possession Point. By noon we’d cleared a wide area with 5 garbage bags of Archangel and a pile of holly and spurge laurel. Just before I pulled my last plant, I discovered a salamander, still as a stick, but much cuter. Margie marveled at it, too, and then tucked it under a fern. Maribeth Click here to become a Friend of Whidbey State Parks. (Deception Pass State Park has a separate Friends Foundation.) Check out what’s happening during Whidbey Earth and Ocean Month here. Find out more about Whidbey 101 here: Directions: From Highway 525 at the light in Freeland, drive north a half mile, then turn left at Bush Point Road. Follow it for 5 miles to the park. From Greenbank take Smuggler’s Cove Road 4.5 miles south to the park. (Bush Point Road turns into Smuggler’s Cove Road.)
By Bike and Bus: Bush Point Road, which turns into Smuggler’s Cove Road, has wide shoulders and usually not much traffic. Island Transit fare free Route 1 stops at the park entrance on Monday-Friday. There is no bus service to the park on weekends. You can put 2 bikes on the bus bike rack. Please wear bright clothes when walking, biking or catching the bus by the road. For a bus schedule click here. Mobility: The old campground loops are paved, closed to traffic and offer a good forest experience for those with mobility challenges. Enter by the restrooms. It’s a little hilly. |
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Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
October 2024
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