Fish. That’s why they’re here. For me, it’s the mist rising off the water as the sun creeps over the horizon, the frosty grasses and seaweed twinkling in the morning light, the enormous logs washed up on a cobbly shore, the whimsical driftwood creatures, the long brown tangles of bull kelp, the old pilings, what’s left of historic structures, and the wide expanse of blue water, flat, calm on this quiet morning. Oh, and the birds. Of course. This is an Important Bird Area after all. Full of important birds. The sun was low, burning through the fog when the bus arrived at Keystone Spit. I disembarked and crossed a field of long, frosty grasses toward the water. Approaching the old pier, I expected to see a crowd of cormorants, but there was only one black silhouette, sitting silently atop a post. Passing a row of picnic tables I stood at the edge. The cobbled shore dropped precariously to a sandy beach. As the tide was out, I had options, cobbles, gravel, or sand. I tried them all making my way along. Stopping intermittently, I spied on glowing gulls, incoming cormorants, and the graceful, red eyed grebes. I used to see Western grebes in great numbers in the winter. What an elegant bird. Their black head looks like an ink pot was poured down the back of their long slender necks. And the red eyes look almost supernatural. I walked beyond the pier as the sun bloomed brighter and a lonesome loon emerged from the ancient past with a fish in its mouth. It spied me on the shore and hesitated. Then tilting its head back, the fish disappeared into the bird’s wide gullet. The lump in its throat looked awkward and uncomfortable. But loons have been doing this for a very long time. They know a good meal when they catch one. It’s long silver body is built to float, more at home in the water than on land, with feet like a propeller at the back of its body, cruising through the ages in perfect form. Their unearthly calls carry unobscured across the water. A smaller gray bird popped up in the distance. Could it be a marbled murrelet? It lays it’s eggs on mossy limbs in the rainforest and then flies for miles to spend most of its time on saltwater. It ties these two ecosystems together even as logging cut them apart. They became a representative of old growth forest, a cute little poster bird illustrating the interconnections of all life. Focusing on the distant birds, I almost missed the giant jellyfish at my feet, rocking back and forth with each gentle wave. The Lion’s Mane is something I’d expect to see in September, but these two are late. Still, they seem healthy and happy here. Our warming oceans bring many surprises. If I were a diver, I could explore the underwater park next to the boat launch. I often see divers going and coming from that undersea aquarium by the jetty as if they'd just hiked in from Port Townsend. But none this morning. I walked on, looking around me and stumbling over driftwood logs slick with melting frost. One rises up into the air like a horse. Another soars like a dragon. Driftwood huts with creative furnishings loom large near the end of the spit, evidence of a summer day full of ambitious endeavors. Finally, I reach Driftwood County Park where I climb the bank and find ducks in the little pond just off the beach. Buffleheads and Goldeneyes swim like little rubber toys in a tub. They make me smile, as do the others, and the sun, and the water, and the bus coming as I step to the street to flag it down. An eagle alights from a nearby telephone pole as I board and we are on our way! Maribeth To take part in a beach clean-up with other volunteers visit this page. For more info on winter birding with Whidbey Audubon, click here. To learn more about Important Bird Areas like this one, click here. Directions: From Highway 20 near Coupeville, follow the signs to the Coupeville Ferry. Keystone Spit is just east of the ferry landing and runs for 2 miles to Driftwood County Park. In between, there are places where a car can turn off the road onto a rough paved road. You’ll need a Discovery Pass to park there, but not at Driftwood County Park, and not if you take the bus. Bike and Bus: The Route 6 bus can take you to the ferry landing Monday-Friday. The Route 1 bus will take you on Saturdays. There is no bus service on Sunday. You may put 2 bikes on the bus bike rack. The road has wide shoulders and many people like to ride bikes around Crockett Lake. Please wear something bright and use lights to be visible to motorists. Mobility: The beach is steep with cobblestone and gravel. There is a lot of driftwood to climb over to get to the beach. However, the rough road down the middle of the spit is accessible for people with mobility challenges. Two driveways link it to the main road. There is an observation deck for bird watching and interpretive signs. A Discover Pass is needed to park there.
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Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
April 2024
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