I’d planned a top ten trails list for this blog post, a special New Year’s review. But then it snowed which transformed everything! So I’m doing what we’ve all learned to do in the last year or two. Pivot! I work at Island Transit just south of Coupeville and like to take my lunch break walking nearby at Pacific Rim Institute. This week that walk has been especially captivating. I walked over as the noon day sun cast diamonds on the snow. In the roadway a little bird tugged at the ice until it managed to pull a worm from beneath and ate it! As I approached the driveway at PRI, there was a raucous riot among sapsuckers! They flew fast and furious around a big tree that was riddled with sapsucker holes. They wrestled on the ground with feathers and feet up in the air! Tumbling and tearing at each other! I wondered what could provoke such a savage attack! Nothing short of attempted murder! Later, a birding friend thought it might be a fight over food sources. In these freezing temperatures, food, which is fuel, becomes that much more precious to those living outside. I watched juncos, sparrows, towhees and varied thrush foraging at the base of other trees or among the branches. I began my usual walk between the sheds that used to house pheasants. The puddles were frozen on the old farm road and packed snow made it easy to walk. I saw tracks of two toed deer, three toed birds, four toed dogs and coyote, and five toed people. Ski tracks crossed the road and continued over the farm. Bird houses had their own icicles with snow insulation on top. Garry oaks clung to their thick, brown coat of leaves. I followed the old road to the barn that stood stately in the snow at the edge of the woods. Two open windows near the top would seem an invitation to owls or other birds seeking shelter. Passing the barn I entered the forest. Robert Frost’s poem came to mind. “Whose woods these are, I think I know, his house is in the village, though. He will not see me stopping here to watch his woods fill up with snow”. The snowy woods were a magical wonderland, totally transformed by the snow and the slivers of sun stabbing through the gate of vertical trees. Rotten stumps and broken trunks provide a place for small critters to tuck in on a winters night. Ocean spray, salal, and thorny shrubs bent by snow formed a tunnel that, in places, required doubling over to creep through. The splendor of ice and snow highlighted every twig on every branch. Sounds were clearer, smells more intense, and colors shimmered. The dome of brilliant blue arched over the white capped evergreens. The lumpy landscape of snow covered shrubs provided cover for a community of critters searching for food and huddled together for warmth. What joy to experience a deep freeze, bundled up in scarves and sweaters, to step outside under a brilliant blue sky into a stunning world of white, just as we transition from one year, with all its challenges and changes, and gather our gumption to pounce into the next! What a precious parting gift from 2021. Let’s celebrate, whether we light fireworks or candles, as we enter 2022. And remember what we’ve learned, to be grateful for simple, beautiful things, and to embrace change as a teacher. Without a doubt, the new year will bring its own challenges and changes and when it does, take some time, take a breath, take a walk close to home. Take care of yourself and each other and let's all have a happy, healthy New Year. Maribeth For more information about Pacific Rim Institute click here. Directions: From the stoplight on Highway 20 in Coupeville, drive 2.8 miles south and turn left onto Morris Road, then turn left again on Parker Road. Pacific Rim Institute is about 1/2 mile north on the right.
By Bus or Bike: Take the Route 1 bus to Morris Road just south of Coupeville. A bus can carry 2-3 bikes. Walk or bike about a half mile north on Parker Road where traffic is light and there's a wide shoulder. Mobility: Pacific Rim Institute has old farm roads around the fields that are a bit rough but nearly level. Trails through the woods are narrow with some low branches.
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Last weekend, I was fortunate to join two friends as they were heading out to walk their dogs at Greenbank Farm. If there’s anything that will get you to stir from the fireside and the rich aroma of Thanksgiving leftovers, it's a dog that needs a walk. Most people need walks, too. Though we were in the midst of another “atmospheric river of rain” and the “cyclone bomb” of wind had not yet fully subsided, we donned our raingear and headed outside. Thankfully it wasn’t cold due to the “pineapple express”. Imagine a trainload of the juicy, golden orbs pulling up to the station. Sweet! The dogs had their raincoats, too, though they didn’t seem to mind the wet. They raced through the tall grass with other dogs as fast as they could go. A yellow lab was leaving as we arrived. His bike buddy beamed at the end of a good ride. We met a family of three generations stretching their legs after consuming far more calories than their recommended daily allowance. It was hard to tell who was having more fun, the baby in a cuddly bear suit complete with tiny ears, or the beaming parents, or grandparents! Lanky, young people strode along behind an energetic retriever, hurling a ball with a chucker. An elderly man slowly worked his way up the hill with the help of two walking sticks, his old dog leading the way. He made his way to the bench at the top and relaxed with a view of the water. Piper introduced herself to his dog, a mirror image, and was rewarded with a treat. It’s a treat to walk here, with or without a dog. Dogs are ambassadors that bring people outside and together no matter how wet or windy. I ask the owner and then greet the dogs holding out my hand to be sniffed. They offer their ears to be scratched. They sniff each other and all the scents along the trails. A stick became Piper’s prized possession as she trotted with her head held high and tail swishing in the wind. The drizzle came in waves reminding me of playing in the sprinkler as a kid. We crossed the hill to the west side overlooking the highway. There’s a bus stop there seemingly in the middle of nowhere, but a gate in the fence provides access to these trails. There’s a solar pea patch nearby and just over the hill is an historic barn complex that houses offices, a gallery, café, cheese and wine shops. All was buzzing with activity Saturday. Lights, garlands and a holiday market in the barn emanated a festive atmosphere. The WSU Master Gardeners have a demonstration garden by the pond and a whole neighborhood is tucked just beyond the trees. A friend walks this field on his way to catch the bus to work with views of the water and mountains. What a way to start, and end, the day. A hawk roosted in a tall cedar overlooking the highway. This is a favorite place for birds and bird watchers due to the varied habitat of forest, fields and wetlands. Horseback riders, bikers and hikers use these trails that wind around the meadow and extend into the woods. The forest trails are open to hunting this time of year, so we stayed in the fields. This place was a dairy farm at the turn of the last century. It became a loganberry farm in the 1940s, and later a dense housing development was planned to take advantage of the water views to the east and west. But the community would not have it. The Nature Conservancy, Island County and the Port of Coupeville joined forces to preserve the historic structures and open space. Now it’s a favorite place to bring your dog with miles of trails to scratch and sniff. Maribeth Greenbank Farm’s Dog Park Guidelines What's Your Favorite Trail? Send a photo and a few lines describing which of our trails you like best and why, and we may include it in our top 10 list on New Year's eve! Deadline is Dec. 26th. Email: [email protected] Directions: Greenbank Farm is just off Highway 525, 10.7 miles south of the light in Coupeville or 8 miles north of the light in Freeland. You may access it off Wonn Road and park by the red barns. (Dogs must be on a leash at the barns but may be off-leash in the dog park area. Well behaved dogs only. Please pick-up after your pet.) Or pull off Highway 525 on the northwest side of the farm, park and enter through a gate in the fence.
Bus and Bike: Take the bus and enter through the gate on the west side of the farm at the end of Smuggler's Cove Road. Buses carry 2-3 bikes on a first come first served basis and dogs are permitted on the bus in an approved carrier. The Island Transit Route 1 bus can get you there fare-free Monday through Saturday. Here’s a schedule. Mobility: These are gentle loop trails through fields and forest but not made for wheelchairs or other mobility devices. Several benches and chairs provide seating with views. If you like surprises, you’ll love Price Sculpture Forest in Coupeville. It’s a new trail recently added to the latest edition of Hiking Close to Home which is coming soon with 70 local trails! This one is particularly fun for younger outdoor explorers. There are surprises around every turn. Its’ fun for us older adventurers to watch them discover the sculptures hanging from trees, sprouting out of the forest floor or hidden among the branches. I was there last weekend with an off-island friend. It was early and ours was the only car in the small parking lot. As we wandered through the woods moving from one sculpture to another, we found the artistry of pileated woodpeckers and nesting birds mingling with the wood carvings and creations of other talented sculptors. I noticed some of the artwork had changed since my last visit which was another delightful surprise. There are two short loop trails that form a figure eight. Nature Nurture stays fairly level and is considered doable for those with mobility challenges. Part way along, we turned downhill on to the Whimsy Way trail. We paused at one of my favorite pieces. It’s like a giant bouquet of flowers that snakes around overhead made with traffic light lens and old tools painted bright colors. The excited squeals of children sang out from the trail above us and we smiled knowing our experience was about to get richer. Being able to walk among a series of sculptures in a forest setting adds intrigue to a trail in the woods. But being able to observe kids interacting with the artwork magnifies the experience. We slowed our pace and looked over our shoulders. A father with a young son and daughter came up to a wooden sculpture as we hovered nearby. The wooden blocks seemed to explode from a log that looked like it had been laying on the ground for years. I asked them, “Do you think this sculpture was carved out of the down tree that’s lying here, or do you think it was brought here and assembled on site?” The boy was quite sure it was brought in. It was fun to watch the kids examine each sculpture as the family moved ahead of us. Another family with kids seemed to run from one art piece to another pausing briefly to point and shout excitedly. The mother raced to keep up. A family of grown-ups moved slowly stopping to consider each one. This trail is full of wonder for all ages. My friend asked how this place came to be. I’d read that in 2008 the Price family bought this 15 acres on Penn Cove near Coupeville with the plan to build a home there. Then another site was chosen for the house instead leaving this property undeveloped. They wanted to preserve it so they consulted with Whidbey Camano Land Trust who created a conservation easement that permanently removes development rights, prevents clear cutting and protects the property for wildlife habitat with allowances for specified infrastructure. Since then another 1.2 acres have been added as a buffer. The property was logged about a century ago. Prior owners planned to subdivide it and build a road through the middle to the waterfront, but those plans never materialized. The Price family want to enhance the sculpture forest with a visitor’s center and an indoor art gallery someday. But for now there are no buildings, no restrooms and no entry fees. It’s just a walk in the woods with plenty of surprises. (Please, no dogs or bikes on the trails.) Address: 678 Parker Road, Coupeville.
Directions: From Highway 20 in Coupeville turn north at the light on Main Street (toward the hospital). Turn right on NE 9th Street and drive 1.5 miles. Look carefully for the paved parking lot on the left. Parking is also allowed on the wide shoulder. By Bus: Island Transit serves Main Street in Coupeville and stops at Morris Road 3 miles south of town, but not on Parker Road. You could walk from 9th Street in Coupeville on a gravel pedestrian trail alongside the road though it’s hilly. That walk round trip is three miles plus the half mile trail at the Sculpture Forest. You can also bring a bike on the bus. By Bike: Though it's hilly, there are wide shoulders on Parker Road and slow speed limits. Mobility: The Nature Nurture Loop is nearly level and smooth but not paved. The Whimsy Way Loop is hilly. Both loops combined are about a half mile walk. It was Saturday and I needed to deliver 25 of our hiking books to the gift shop at Fort Casey State Park. I take the bus often to reduce my carbon footprint. I think of it as a fun challenge. On weekdays the Route 1 bus goes straight up the highway to Coupeville, but on Saturdays, the Route 1 goes to the Coupeville Ferry and right by the park entrance. I wouldn't have to change buses! So I hopped on the bus with my box of books. On the way I thought about my upcoming blog post. Fort Casey, Camp Casey, and the Admiralty Inlet Preserve are all within walking distance. But I decided on Keystone Spit which is right on the bus route. The two mile walk would be perfect timing to catch the bus home. After delivering the books to the park office, I followed the campground road down the hill, crossed the ferry holding area, and walked east toward the busy boat ramp. I could tell by the number of boat trailers in the parking lot that it’s fishing season. I passed a nice restroom where divers were preparing to explore the underwater park. They can dive around the breakwater or the old pier which was once part of Fort Casey. The pier is often crowded with cormorants, excellent divers in their own right. Moving down the beach there were families beach combing and people walking their dogs. Cabins and castles were built using local materials, complete with furnishings and flagpoles. Fishermen stood evenly spaced, casting and reeling in hopes of winning a flashing silver prize. One old expert sat among the driftwood observing as if assessing the techniques of the others. As I moved from the beach to the old rugged road in the middle of Keystone Spit I stopped to read an interpretive sign telling the story of how this spit was slated for development. They called it “Chicago” on a plat recorded in the 1890s. The line of pilings on Crockett Lake across the road supported a bridge to the proposed town site. The hopes of a nearby railroad never materialized and neither did the town. Later, in the 1970’s, developers proposed 200 houses be built on the spit and two model homes were constructed. But local opposition that continued for years ended when Keystone Spit became part of Fort Casey State Park. Those two homes, battered by winter storms, provided homes for birds and wildlife. I was watching in 1988 when the remnants were torched by local firefighters for practice. Just across the road from Keystone Spit is Crockett Lake, an estuary with a mixture of salt and fresh water. The salt water of Admiralty Inlet, the sand bar of Keystone Spit and the brackish water of Crockett Lake makes this rich bird habitat. It meets the criteria to be an official Important Bird Area. Several species of raptors, shore birds, gulls, ducks, cormorants, herons, finches, wrens, blackbirds, swallows, sparrows and martins all find food and shelter here. In summer enormous white pelicans can be seen at the west end of the lake. An observation deck provides a little height where one can set up a spotting scope to spy on the birds from a distance. Continuing to the east I came upon two small ponds where I’ve seen a variety of ducks take shelter during winter storms. The Whidbey Camano Land Trust has a fundraiser going on involving biking around the lake and Ebey’s Prairie with a pie as a reward. A friend and I planned to participate the next day. I saw several cyclists passing by which made me wonder if they would also be eating pie in the near future. Find out more here: https://www.wclt.org/get-involved/bikeride/ At the eastern end of Keystone Spit is Driftwood County Park. You can park here without a Discovery Pass, but if you park on the old road in the middle of the spit, you will need one. Or you can take the bus as I did. For a bus schedule visit: www.islandtransit.org or call 360-678-7771. Maribeth PS: To help keep Keystone Spit clean volunteer with the Beach Litter Clean-up Program. Visit: https://extension.wsu.edu/island/nrs/beachlitter/ for details. Directions: From Highway 20 and Main Street in Coupeville, turn south and follow the signs to the ferry. Keystone Spit is just east of the ferry terminal. Walk the beach passing a few homes and then you can walk on the old road in the middle of the spit. Or park on the old road in the middle of the spit. You will need a Discover Pass as the spit is a State Park. Or drive to the east end of the spit and park at Driftwood County Park and walk west.
By Bus: The fare free Island Transit bus stops at the Coupeville ferry terminal and you can flag down the southbound bus at the east end of the spit. There is no Northbound bus stop there. Call 360-678-7771 for details or visit: www.islandtransit.org for a schedule. Take the Route 1 on Saturdays and the Route 6 on weekdays. There is no Sunday service. 2-3 bikes fit on each bus bike rack. Masks are required. Mobility: The old road in the middle of the spit is flat but the pavement is rough. The beach is mostly cobblestones and steep at high tide. By Bike: There's a wide shoulder on the highway along Keystone Spit. Riding the five miles around Crockett Lake is a very popular route among cyclists. |
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Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
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