At a trailhead the other day I met some young people among the parked cars. One asked me, “What is your favorite song?” “Goodness.” I said ”That’s a hard question. There are so many.” I have a song in my head almost all of the time. Usually, I’m not even aware, so I paused to listen closer. Caledonia, I told her, a Scottish folk song of longing for loved ones and a well-loved place. It’s like being asked, “What’s your favorite trail?” There are so many, and they’re each like songs that come to mind and linger, replaying fond memories from years gone by. They say you can never step twice into the same river. It's the same for trails. Ever changing, season to season, morning or night, in thick fog or bold sunshine, alone or with friends, the time we saw otters, or the bay filled with kayakers. Today I had an errand that took me across Deception Pass, so I made a stop, to visit a well-loved place, with a favorite song in my head. From Rosario I walked among tall trees making my way between the old log and stone structures, by the rocky shore. Turning away from the Maiden, I passed the Discovery Center and took the trail as it climbed the bluff and hugged the shoreline of Bowman Bay. Madronas seem to dance in their red leotards stretching out over the water. Sturdy Douglas fir, sculpted by wind and weather, looked like bonsai trees on the bluff. A steady stream of boats plowed the waters of Deception Pass, their wakes rhythmically washing the beach. I climbed the hill stopping often to view the bay, looking for otters or seals. A kingfisher sounded. A raven croaked. A flicker flashed its white rump as it swooped along the shore. Chickadees and cedar waxwings called from the same tree, the same branch, singing in harmony. The quiet peace, seeped in with the soft drizzle. Rocky cliffs, adorned with sedum and licorice ferns, rose to one side, a drop to the blue grey water on the other. A red octopus madrona twisted around a dark spire of fir on the bank as if to quietly capture it. A soft cloud layer muffled the sounds of rolling waves below. Entranced I walked until voices from the campground woke me from the spell. I smelled food cooking, caught a glimpse of bikes and campers, and a rainbow flag aloft. Coming out into expansive lawns I admired the CCC shelter built a century ago. Then I climbed the rocky bluff to return. This walk holds a special place in my heart. Just a half hour before or after work, a welcome break in a busy day, a relaxed walk on a weekend with friends. This short trail is a world apart and yet, at the center of it all. A quintessential northwest experience, water, islands, boats, forest, headlands, log and stone shelters, a carved maiden standing guard over the sacred home of her ancestors. Like a favorite song, Caledonia, a song of longing for loved ones and a well-loved place. Let me tell you that I love you and I think about you all the time. Caledonia, you’re calling me, now I’m going home. If I should become a stranger, you know that it would make me more than sad. Calendonia you’re everything I’ve ever had. Listen to Dougie McClean sing it with friends. Maribeth Directions: From Highway 20 at Deception Pass bridge, go north and take the first left onto Rosario Road. In about a mile, turn left onto Cougar Gap Road, and left to the park entrance. Bring your Discovery Pass to park inside the gate.
Bus and Bike: The nearest bus stop is about 3 miles away at the store on the south side of the bridge. This is a busy, winding road with no shoulder so not recommended for bikes. Mobility: The areas at either end of this trail are gentle and open. The trail between has rocky, hilly sections with steep drops on one side.
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Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
May 2024
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