This week our Hike of the Week departs from Whidbey, Fidalgo, or Guemes islands to visit a next-door island, still close to home, still in Skagit County, one that I see almost every day just across the water from Anacortes: Cypress Island. The island is mostly owned and managed by DNR, with parts of it set aside as natural area preserves, or in conservation easements. Trails and adventures abound. Many of you have probably been there, some of you probably several or maybe dozens of times. It’s so close to home, just a short paddle across Guemes Channel then drafting off Guemes Island to land at Cypress. Everyone who describes Cypress to me mentions wonderful places to camp and adventurous trails to explore. Well, I had never hiked there. It was a long-overdue bucket-list item. On our paddle over, we had strong northerlies in our face, so we took refuge at Cypress Head and set up camp in a delightful site with views over Guemes to morning sunrises. Our goal for the next day was Pelican Beach at the north end of Cypress, and to hike from there to Eagle Cliff, a ‘not-to-be-missed’ destination we were told. And then back to Cypress Head. Twelve miles of hiking, that was our goal. And over 2000 feet of elevation gain. Each way. Cypress is a steeply mountainous island. I had no idea how far we would really be able to go. Early in the morning, as a red sun rose over Guemes, we crossed the tombolo and headed west, and immediately up, steeply up. Near the abandoned airport we turned north. Maps are essential here. Trail markers mention destinations, though often not how far it will be. Yet interestingly, in the middle of nowhere, we would come across a wall of well-written interpretive panels giving us natural history stories. No maps included, but good stories. We descended to Reed Lake, savoring the fact it was now downhill almost all the way to Pelican. The trail climbs a little to get to Duck Lake, or more accurately “pondlily” lake, as we could see no water in the lake, just thick vegetation. Then a short jaunt through sparkling maples and ferns led us to Pelican Beach. Composting toilets welcomed us, as did sunshine reflecting off the water, and a beach made up of a million perfectly shaped skipping rocks. It was time for lunch. After hiking four and a half miles to get here, up and down, and up and down, our lunch was delicious! From here it’s just over a mile to climb 752 feet to Eagle Cliff. The trail is beautiful, through open woods that break out into grassy meadows before the final ascent to the rocky top. The peak gives nearly 360-degree views of Rosario Strait and the San Juans. Definitely worthwhile. Then began the long hike back to camp. Up and down, then a big UP for two miles, then back down to Cypress Head. The final 100-yard-long stroll up to our campsite was an extreme effort of endurance and exhaustion. And exhilaration. And well-deserved rest. Cypress has so many hiking options, all of them a climb. You can aim for Cypress Lake at 1000 feet, Bradbury Lake at over 1100 feet, or the four peaks of Cypress, coming in at over 1200, 1300, 1400, and the highest at 1500 feet. Or hike to Strawberry Bay, or Tide Point, or many other interesting destinations. We did not do those on this trip. Maybe next time. We paddled back the next morning, into the wind. Why is it always into the wind? People say that what we’re all seeking is a meaning for life…. What we’re really seeking is an experience of being alive, so that our physical experiences resonate within our innermost being, so we feel the actual rapture of being alive. -Joseph Campbell jack Directions: from Anacortes, paddle north a few miles to the east shore of Cypress. Or drive onto Guemes Island to the park at the north end for a shorter paddle. Or get a ride from a private boat service that will drop you off anywhere you wish. We were tempted to call for a ride back to Cypress Head when we were at Pelican!
By bus, or bike? Nope. Mobility: Tough trails, though well made. Steep, rocky, rooty, or flat and wide, depending which part of the island. Did we mention steep?
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Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
May 2024
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