If you look at a map, it’s at the heart of Whidbey Island. And if you want to impress your sweetheart, you might bring them here. That’s what Vin Sherman told me while walking in Rhododendron Park last fall. He grew up on Ebey’s Prairie, just outside of Coupeville, and said on prom night, they’d cruise the Rhodie Road and see the wild rhododendrons in bloom, as pretty as the corsage they’d just pinned on their date. What a lovely image. I filed that away in my memory bank and this spring, I actually remembered to go see for myself. My yard has huge rhododendrons that erupted in full bloom this month. The largest could hide a house with purple flowers as big as a cheerleader’s pompoms. When people stop by, their eyes widen, they draw in their breath and praise the beauty thinking maybe I had something to do with it. I didn’t. These shrubs were planted here thirty years ago by Harold and Gerta. But I’ve been doing my best to maintain them. Walking through Rhododendron Park is totally different. These rhodies are native, growing among the tall fir and cedar in a natural forest. It took me awhile to adjust to their subtle beauty. A pale blossom spotlighted by a single ray of sunshine breaking through the canopy; a cluster of purple flowers reaching for the sky between tall trees. I’d hopped on the bus after work and hopped off at Quail Trail Lane, just across the street. I waited for the cars to part and then hustled across the highway to the Rhododendron Bike Trail for easy walking away from traffic. I turned at the WAIF animal shelter and walked the park road with salal hedges on both sides. A few tall rhodies caught my eye above the bushes. I studied my options on a park map at the kiosk. The Rhodie Road is what Vin had described so I went straight down the middle of the park starting through the quiet campground with no campers in sight. The touch-and-go airfield is nearby, but thankfully, the jets weren’t flying. Coming to a closed gate I found there was enough room on one side to allow access for a bike, a horse, or a wheelchair. I went around, too. The Rhodie Road is a paved, one lane road for service vehicles, though I’d never seen one there. Piles of horse manure in different stages of decay marked their passing, though I didn’t see them either. In fact, I didn’t see anyone on my walk through the park. But I heard spotted towhee, robins and crows calling through the forest. A Pacific wren sang proudly from the tip top of a snag. There was space here, between the branches, and gaps in the canopy that let in light and air through which the rhodies climbed, twisted and bloomed. I walked almost a mile to the end of the park where I came to Patmore Road. After a short walk on the shoulder, I turned back into the park. The south end has ball fields, a playground and a picnic shelter, the perfect place for a little league game, family reunion or 4th of July BBQ. Behind the parking lot, I discovered the trail back into the woods and found myself returning to the Rhodie Road. It was so easy walking here in the shade, no roots or rocks to step over. It would be a pleasant jog with a baby stroller, an extension to the bike trail by the highway, a horseback ride, or a stroll for someone using a wheelchair or walker. Nearing the end of my walk, I encountered a couple coming toward me. They looked tiny between the tall trees. We greeted each other warmly and then continued. As I turned around, I saw them in the distance, holding hands. It’s a good place to bring your sweetheart. Maribeth Here's a map of Rhododendron County Park. Rhododendron County Park is at the east end of the Rhododendron Bike Trail that runs parallel to Highway 20 for 4 miles connecting with the Kettles Bike Trails. You can also find the trailhead to the new Walking Ebey Trail that zigzags through Central Whidbey to Admiralty Inlet Preserve. See the connections on this map: Island Transit has a new bus route for Central Whidbey State Parks that goes into Fort Ebey and Fort Casey, with a stop at Ebey’s Landing from Memorial Day to Labor Day. It also stops in Coupeville and the Coupeville Ferry. Also new is Sunday service including Route 4 to Deception Pass State Park on Sundays. And its all fare-free. See the schedule here: Directions: From Coupeville, drive 1.8 miles south on Highway 20 and turn right onto Park Road. To find the south entrance, drive 3.5 miles south of Coupeville on Highway 20 and turn right onto Patmore Road. Drive a half mile and turn right into the park at 502 West Patmore Road, Coupeville.
Bus and Bike: On weekdays fare-free Island Transit Route 1 stops at Jacobs Road going south and Quail Trail Lane going north near the park entrance. Two bikes fit on a bus bike rack. Island Transit does not pass the park on weekends. Pedestrians and bikes can take the Rhododendron Bike Trail from Coupeville, 2 miles south to Rhododendron Park. The park is accessible from Patmore Road on the south side which is a lightly traveled road. Please wear something bright if walking or riding a bike by the road. Mobility: The Rhodie Road down the middle of Rhododendron County Park is accessible with a wide, paved surface. There is a gate in the campground with enough room to get around it in a wheelchair. Off Patmore Road on the south end of the park, the ball field and picnic shelter area has accessible restrooms and parking. Side trails are narrow, with roots, and not as well maintained.
0 Comments
Your comment will be posted after it is approved.
Leave a Reply. |
Authors
Maribeth Crandell has been a hiking guide in the Pacific NW for over 20 years. She's lived on Whidbey and Fidalgo Island for decades. As a frequent bus rider she easily makes connections between trails and transit. Archives by date
May 2024
Categories
All
|